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Brands from UAE, Lebanon and Syria make waves at Paris Fashion Week

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When the big names battle for the most eye-catching shows, Paris fashion week Filled with smaller emerging brands, all presenting their wares to the world media.

Some of these are already very familiar in the Middle East, as Rami Al Ali, Azzi & Osta and even Karen Wazen have all brought their unique styles to the French capital.

Cecil Beaton Inspired Rami El Ali

Inspired by Cecil Beaton, Rami Al Ali's new collection returns to old-school glamour.Photo: Rami Ali

Designer Rami Al Ali is from Syria and now lives in Dubai, and already has a loyal clientele in the Gulf.

With his understated take on old-fashioned glamour, blending clean lines and decorative details, his new Spring/Summer 2023 collection builds on the same philosophy.

Inspired by British photographer Cecil Beaton, known for his work with the royal family, Al Ali brings Beaton’s love of solemnity and pomp into a cool, elegant in the series.

The color of the ice cream complements 1950s fashion and the result is mesmerizing. For example, the coral pink sequined jumpsuit features a bold bow on the bodice, while the classic duck egg blue strapless gown features a soft pink belt. Discreet beading emanates from that waistline.

Azzi and Osta nostalgia

Azzi & Osta Spring/Summer 2023 tailored jacket in bright pink with diamond drops.  Sarah Maisey / The National

Another name on show in Paris is Lebanese duo Azzi & Osta, who also do occasion clothing.

For the Spring/Summer 2023 collection, the inspiration came from the concept of “anemia,” a phrase coined by author John Koenig, defined as nostalgia for an era you didn’t know existed. It has an intense palette of shocking pinks and blacks muted into pale greens and lavenders.

Here, young designers look back at the 1980s, 1970s and beyond, mixing early Le Smoking elements with punk details.

For example, women’s tuxedos feature a giant satin bow with tiny buttons, while tailored jackets are embellished with drops. Always put color and cut at the forefront – both are hallmarks of the brand – here a peach pink strapless pleated mini dress with a deep magenta belt, while a pistachio green tailored dress is paired with a sequined bottom skirt in chartreuse .

Marzook goes green

'Fan' clutch from Lebanese-Kuwaiti brand Marzook. It takes over 100 hours per bag to coat the crystals.Sarah Macy/The Nation

Lebanese-Kuwaiti handbag company Marzook is also in town for fashion week. Known for its premium clutches, the company is best known for its “Pill” bag, a diamond-shaped handbag densely adorned with Swarovski crystals that takes 1,000 hours to craft.

A new version made of biodegradable plastic was introduced this season. This new all-black bag is completely unisex and can be worn over the shoulder or cross-body. The same environmentally conscious plastic has also been used to create a new green “fan” bag.

Karen Wazen brings new shades

Karen Wazen's new 'Jordan' sunglasses with bubble pink lenses and temples.Sarah Macy/The Nation

Sunglasses brand Karen Wazen is another regional brand showing in Paris. The brand and its namesake are originally from Lebanon but have relocated to the UAE.

The whole concept of glasses stemmed from Wazen’s own teenage insecurities, convinced that her eyes were too big. Hidden behind with sunglasses, they eventually became her signature, and she finally decided to launch her own collection.

Now, she’s launching a large square lens in clear green in France, while the existing Devon, Carolyn and Kourt frames are all available in new colors. There’s even a new bubblegum pink Jordan frame with pink lenses and bright pink temples.

L’Atelier Nawbar cut new gems

Hexagon cocktail ring from L'Atelier Nawbar featuring clear gemstones, diamonds and coloured gemstones.Sarah Macy/The Nation

Lebanese fine jewelry store L’Atelier Nawbar also made an appearance in Paris as it showcased new arrivals. One of them is the Fragments collection, which was originally conceived in the wake of the Beirut port explosion on August 4, 2020, when the brand incorporated shards of devastation glass into jewellery.

Now, the idea has been extended to bracelets and pinky rings, both with the same angular feel. New shades in the ring include green, white and black, all mixed with white diamonds. There are also light and dark blue enamel bracelets.

Another new addition is the Hexagon Cocktail Ring, which is now made of clear gemstones with a white diamond floating on it. It has diamonds on the edges and colored gemstones on the sides.

There are also new versions of the brand’s pendants, including one cut from a single piece of black onyx, decorated with a golden moon and star. Like many of L’Atelier Nawbar’s pieces, these are double-sided, allowing customers to choose according to their mood.

Scroll through the gallery below to see famous faces Day 6 of Paris Fashion Week

Updated: 10/4/2022 7:04am



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