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Great English Brunch…
The UK has significant influence in key areas of national achievement. Its contributions to science, engineering, art, music, philosophy, satire. Apologizing, queuing, and uttering incomprehensible dialect are almost unbeatable.
The two areas where it has traditionally performed poorly in international opinion are the World Cup trophy and food. In all fairness, these two failed second halves had real development. Britain’s reputation for bland food is slowly being undercut by celebrity chef ambassadors, Michelin-starred restaurants and ubiquitous cooking TV shows.
“Perhaps now is the time”, must have thought Nahaam of the Conrad Hotel at Etihad Towers in Abu Dhabi, “to fly the Union Jack high and proudly celebrate this new era of British cuisine”, because that’s what Forgive me what they’re doing for brunch at their glass-walled poolside restaurant.
It’s a particularly brave move for Nahaam, as it runs one of the capital’s most popular brunch (you’re at what is on Abu Dhabi Awards 2022, no less).
keep Calm and carry on
The layout will be familiar to those who have had brunch here before, and this was our first visit to the dining stations inside the restaurant – the first stop was the seafood station. Shellfish standards did not slip after changing the theme guard, and succulent crab and lobster claws (us) smothered in a questionable amount of Mary Rose sauce were a strong start to the meal. There are also oysters, ceviche and smoked fish for those with a pescatarian bent.
Note interval
While seated, there are regular visits from the roaming food servers, who circle the venue’s tube map. Our favorite of the range at this table service is the rose-pink Lamb Wellington. Duxelle, a crispy pastry topped with meat and mushroom sauce is worth a try.
Sunday
We’re already off to find our next course, though, and have made our way to the open-air patio, where the band plays some cheeky rendition of Maroon 5 pop bop somewhere in the background. This is where the upper lip really starts to harden. Live cooking stations feature a roast area for roast beef, lamb and chicken; further proof of British authenticity with Yorkshire puddings, gravy and mint sauce.
There’s a curry station, representing the cosmopolitan taste of modern Blighty (and the reasons behind it being less palatable), pies, tikkas and koftas, and a mini ‘chippie’ serving fish and chips, and Sarson’s Malt vinegar and pea puree. You’ll also find some delicious fire-baked pizza (and sushi elsewhere) if you feel like taking a cruise around the channel.
We got ourselves a big plate of Thames snacks. There should be no doubts. The quality here is easily better than what you’ll find in 95% of competing restaurants and pubs in the UK. Our pick for Top of the Pop-ups is the stellar roast sirloin, fried fish and pepperoni pizza with a heavy Italian accent.
we have all eaton ‘ s candies
The brunch ends with a cultural performance worthy of a place in the courtyard of Covent Garden. Tabletop mess at Eton – edible desserts (fruit, candies, cream, chocolate balls, etc.) smashed, drizzled, and sprayed onto glass-walled counters along with copious amounts of liquid nitrogen, presumably for the Wuthering Heights drama aesthetics. We loaded up our plates for the final blow, and as the band played their farewell, we can honestly say that one corner of this hotel is now forever British. Or at least until they change the subject.
Conclusion: The culinary update of Nahaam’s lineup is a nice nod to a culinary culture that has more to offer than it is often given credit for. It all comes together extremely well and, if anything, only cements the venue’s place among the top capital brunches. His Madj would be proud.
Conrad Abu Dhabi at Etihad Towers, Corniche Road, 12.30pm-4pm, Dhs375 soft wine, Dhs495 house, Dhs765 champagne. Tel: (02) 811 5666, @conradetihadtowers
Image: Supplied
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