How Arabic calligraphy fits into the UAE’s fashion industry

Arabic calligraphy may be prominent on book covers and gallery walls, but this ancient art form is gaining popularity among clothing and accessory lovers.

Many local brands are weaving calligraphic brushstrokes into everything from streetwear to statement dresses.

What is a sentence?

Head over to the recently opened THAT concept store in the Mall of the Emirates, and you’ll find an assortment of plexiglass clutch bags on display. Some feature a keffiyeh scarf print, while others feature the word “love” in bold Arabic calligraphy – an art that Palestinian designer Meera Toukan has always embraced.

“I believe words written in calligraphy have powerful meaning, and the way they are written makes them more appealing and helps me get closer to my roots,” said Toukan, who launched her namesake brand in 2014.

“It’s art and it’s heritage. I love its heritage, but it’s versatile and easy to play around with, making it more suitable for the modern consumer.”

Toukan also branded her hands with words like “peace” and “freedom.”

“The reason I stick to these three pillars is because I’ve always wanted freedom, peace and love in every form in the Middle East and around the world,” Tucan told Nationwide.

Nisreen Krimed’s Canava dresses also feature Arabic words for “peace,” “patience,” and “truth.” Her fabrics are handcrafted in Dubai, with chiffon covered in calligraphy stacked over newspaper prints and maps of Damascus and Jerusalem.

She said her choice of words reflected timeless virtues and experimented with their scale and placement.

“Abstracting pictures into words also has meaning for the shapes themselves,” says Cremede, whose passion for design and “clothing manipulation” was sparked as a child, watching her mother and sisters sew clothes.

Hierarchical meaning and information

Some designers experiment with layered fabrics, while others mirror the layered meaning of Arabic words. Nawal Masri is the founder of streetwear brand Exhale, which collaborates with artists, most recently an Arabic calligrapher who goes by the alias illm.

Arabic letters fill the silhouette of the praying hands, which are located on the back of the collaboration hooded prayer hood.

“Praying hands in Arabic calligraphy are like your soaring wings,” Masri explained. “I wanted to bring to life the vision of designing breathable and minimalistic prayer garments that allow us to remain clear and comfortable during prayer, presenting ourselves to Allah in a beautiful not material but spiritual way.”

Exhale showcases Arabic phrases in various typographic themes, often associated with thematic events. For example, the collaboration with calligrapher Diaa Allam is an ode to the UAE’s mission to Mars and reads “nothing is impossible” in Arabic.

Celebrating Diversity and Unity

These designers believe Arabic calligraphy can be an inspiring and unifying art form, as well as an intimate reflection of faith and cultural roots.

“Using this language in my designs is how I stay true to my core,” Masri said. “The clothes you own ultimately represent you, and what we choose to represent us affects our mood, attitude, confidence, performance and state of mind.”

Perhaps this is why Arabic calligraphy has been on the rise in fashion, not only in the Middle East, but also in the West, where brands like Zidouri (which features Arabic embroidery on streetwear and jewelry) are booming. Arabs and Muslims in these regions are often marginalized communities, but wearing clothing emblazoned with calligraphic patterns can be a sartorial statement of pride and political or religious allegiance.

“What makes [the language] Even more beautiful are the dialects and accents used in different countries – but we all write in the same way, and that’s what brings us together,” Toukan said.

“Many Arab millennials classify themselves as ‘third culture kids’; it makes our generation an interesting one. I want to create fashion pieces that resonate with this generation, while also introducing the world to our richness legacy.”

Fashion is often political, and in a world where young fashion lovers are infusing their styles with symbols of culture, tradition and faith, Arabic calligraphy is a stylish and moving statement.

“Anything that connects with an audience has an impact,” says Emirati fashion designer Fatma Al Mulla, known for her bold graphic dresses, gowns and accessories, often printed with Witty Arabic phrases.

“This beautiful language holds such deep meanings that, in some cases, they cannot be translated – they are not only rooted in Arabs, but in Muslims around the world.”

Personalized Custom Works

Al Mulla’s latest designs blend her signature Arabic pop culture aesthetic with decadent calligraphy.

“As a brand born in Dubai, my designs are bound to have this language printed,” she said. Her customers can be a conversation starter by customizing their dresses with oversized dazzling letters or initials.

“Embroidering letters is a lot of work, usually 3 to 10 hours, depending on the size the customer orders,” she says. “They are stuffed, a piece of cloth is added for support, and the beads are started. The color of the beads is completely customizable as well.”

Given the power of words, customization proved to be a welcome service; Toukan also personalizes her plexiglass clutches in Arabic and English letters.

universal appeal of language

While Arabic calligraphy naturally resonates with speakers of the language, all designers said they were happy to see their work appeal to non-Arabic clients as well.

Masri believes that calligraphy is a statement in and of itself that will “appeal” to those who encounter it, whether they can read it or not, while Tucan describes it as “attractive” to non-Arabs and “fun”. “It makes consumers eager to learn more about culture, norms and heritage.”

Echoing Masri, Krimed said that Arabic, with its tangible form of calligraphy, offers non-Arab consumers an authentic and accessible culture, concluding: “The aesthetics of calligraphy make it a great place to immerse yourself in it. One of the easiest ways to do it. A cultural experience, even if you don’t read or speak the language.”

Updated: August 17, 2021 10:57AM