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Take advantage of this new snack bar…
We’ve commented in the past on the poetic synergy between Spanish and Arabic food, not least because of shared traditional threads. Arab settlers occupied large swaths of the Iberian mainland as early as the eighth century, with an impact on language, place names, architecture and food – one that can still be seen today.
And, when it comes to food — especially sharing — what is hors d’oeuvres if not sultry Spanish accents? It’s this level of resonant synergy that makes Abu Dhabi, which doesn’t have many truly authentic Spanish restaurants, feel all the more perverse.
Enter the new hotel at Conrad Abu Dhabi Etihad Towers Home Continental cuisine José by Pizarro – a bijoux 46 seat tapas bar and restaurant. It’s a concept because the name offers the most definitive spoiler, international chef icon José Pizarro – tapas czar and poster boy for the globalization of Iberian cuisine.
In terms of interior space, the warmly lit restaurant-bar feels somewhere between an Osaka karaoke bar and a Rambla wine cellar. A section of terracotta wall features framed black and white Pizarro family photos and showcases the chef’s belief that restaurants work best when they create a personal connection with people: “I think kitchens and restaurants are all about memories,” he told We visited “Life is a Memory” when we were there before the opening.
It’s currently open Tuesday to Sunday between 5pm and 11.30pm, and since it’s still ostensibly in its final soft opening phase, there aren’t many promotions to distract you from the magma-hot core of the a la carte experience attention. We came here for a disgraceful breakfast with fondest memories.
Carlos Ortiz leads the kitchen while Chef José is off campus — presiding over menu recommendations with a rare icy charisma only seen in the most famous chefs. From the small plates to share, Ortiz insisted that we eat his signature Cantabrian anchovies (Dhs33) on brioche; along with tortillas (Dhs50) – this is the Spanish omelette variety, not Mexican flatbread ; and Spinach and Manchego Cheese Croquettes (Dhs50). We opted for an arroz meloso de carabinero (Dhs325) – deep sea red prawns served with rice – from the shared main gallery.
José by Pizarro Anchovies are the missionaries of salted fish dishes, and we’re told they’ll please even the most diehard anchovy cynic. Granted, there’s no comparison to the often-picked variety we have here on pizza. The fillets are of pure Atlantic coastal descent, packed in premium oil, full of complex meaty, almost game flavors, framed precisely by sweet brioche and smoky butter cradled.
Croquettes are also a must-have option, a snack table staple in this Pizarro world, with their velvety, fudge-like color, making them the most “Excuse me, ma’am, can we have another plate of these?” “Top contender for the order. Order the soft tortillas, this is where you get the most filling and we think the most authentic taste.
We ended our evening with (accuracy was sacrificed for brevity) prawn paella. A dish that is creamy and thus deceptively rich and hearty – feeling regal and indulgent, carabinero shrimp – a rare treasure of the deep that offers a variety of delightful triggers for those who appreciate fine seafood . This is beyond negative criticism, but for loud, rustic, emotional folks – we recommend the chicken paella (Dhs315), (essentially Spanish mandi – see, tangled up) we had in the last Tried it when visiting. It is quite possibly the best of its kind in the UAE.
Verdict: This Spanish restaurant’s dominance isn’t just about the entrees, it’s also serving top-notch tapas.
Conrad Abu Dhabi Etihad Towers, Corniche, Tuesday to Sunday, 5pm to 11.30pm. @josebypizarro
Image: Supplied
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