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NEW YORK (AP) – With waterfalls cascading down the marble walls of a grand early-20th-century Beaux-Arts building, Proenza Schouler presented her latest collection at New York Fashion Week.
To be clear, the water is not actually wet, but presented in the video installation. Still, the soothing waterfall created a strong vibe for the garments on display at Friday’s show — especially the cascading ruffles that graced many of the ensembles, either sprinkled on the backs of garments or “dropped” “To the long sleeves.
In the Hall des Lumières exhibition space, located in the old Immigrant Industrial Savings Bank building (an early example of Beaux-Arts architecture in New York), designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough present what they consider to be their personal hybrid history—in their own words Said, “The sensuality and fiery qualities of Lazaro’s Latin origin, coupled with the pragmatism and courage that Jack experienced in America.” The pair said that water was chosen as a symbol of life.
The collection featured more nude or sheer looks than the designers usually showed, opening with two dresses with sheer crochet skirts and fringed bodice. Later there was an ensemble of a shimmering gold crocheted sleeveless top and sheer skirt.
The pair found “this amazing community of hand-knitters” in Bolivia, Hernandez said backstage, and they spent six months creating a set.
When conceiving the show, McCollough said the duo started with a series of silhouettes. The concept of water, he says, is embodied in the feeling of dripping—for example, the rippling feel of a pair of baggy flared trousers or a black leather skirt with ruffles. Aside from the crocheted look, lace dresses add another sheer look.
The designers, who met as students at Parsons School of Design, named their fashion brand after their mother’s maiden name. Their collections are often based on themes of contemporary art or culture.
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