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Live cooking stations are at the fiery heart of this brunch outlier…
Some names carry a certain weight of expectation. Fame comes before you, invites thieves to a surprise feast, and locks you into an insurmountable standard of living. Abu Dhabi’s Zuma fits that image with aplomb – it’s part of a global network of food outlets where you don’t expect mediocrity. Your visit expects “wow”.
As we pulled up our chairs to the table by the window, we thought to ourselves, “then there’s no constant stress”. An entire side of the restaurant floor is divided by this massive glass wall, letting in sunlight and gazing lazily at the waterfront of Al Maryah Island.
Like the cuisine it serves up as a platform, Baikingu brunch takes the form of a gentle fusion. Izakaya energy found in live robata cooking stations, tabletop togarashi edamame, miso soup and shared sashimi platters; a wide variety of buffet appetizers; choose the restaurant’s signature dish for your entree served live; A dazzling assortment of trademark desserts. All, priced from Dhs495.
Our first foray into appetizer territory was cut short prematurely due to an almost immediate lack of plate space. Instead of making hard choices, we defaulted to “a little bit of everything,” and it was absolutely the right decision. The airy puffs of shrimp tempura, fragrant marinated shabu-shabu rolls, chunky slices of duck, assorted succulent dumpling cubes and hearth-grilled cuts of Wagyu beef are especially delightful. Appetizers’ reputation for excellence, proudly defended, remains unscathed. Without a doubt, this is a special brunch.
At this stage, the main course feels like a deliberate perfume on the lilies, a poetic sentiment, a logical continuation – sure – but maybe a little unnecessary. Miso marinated black cod, giant tiger prawns, grilled Australian Wagyu rib eye with truffle mayonnaise and a small portion arrived at our table with chilled sake.
“Oh how stupid we are, got back five or six minutes ago” we exclaim, tucking into principle plates “fools even consider skipping this part of the meal”. Regardless of our relative satiation levels, power is an absolutely necessary part of the experience. They’re the spotlight solos at the Baikingu Brunch festival, created by a kitchen full of rock stars who are masters of their craft.
The cod is a raucous chorus of fencing umami; the seared, charred and sourced Australian Wagyu rib-eye steak is one of the best examples of this craftsmanship in the city, and let’s call for it again; Storm on the plateau, let us sing to the cook.
It all ends with the sweet refrain of the Zuma Dessert Platter. Refreshing fruit, piles of mochi, fudge cakes and soothing ice cream. Despite the author’s “we can’t take another bite” sigh, one bite becomes another, and another.
Verdict: Zuma’s Baikingu Brunch was almost flawless. We’re not sure if there is a better brunch in Abu Dhabi. It scores high for quality, variety, consistency, range and every other culinary credential you would consider. It’s pure brunch and a gourmet must-have – the food is the only entertainment needed.
Galleria Al Maryah Island, Saturday 12.30pm-4pm, Dhs495 for soft drinks, Dhs595 for house includes prosecco, Dhs695 for champagne, Dhs195 for children aged 4 to 12. Tel: (02) 401 5900, @zumabudhabi
Image: Supplied
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