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How this city graduated from Starbucks to artisanal coffee in a few years
Ahmed Shafi rolled down the window of his SUV as the barista handed the Emiratis a piccolo latte — two ristretto coffees topped with steamed almond milk in 90ml cups. Next to his Nissan Patrol, a European couple enjoys their cortado while listening to Taylor Swift’s Fearless in their BMW 4 Series Convertible.
It’s 7pm and the Saddle Café in the Al Wasl Road car park is just starting to get busy. The scene at Nostalgia Café on Al Thanya Street was no different, with cars lining up outside.
By late at night, baristas at both locations were busy, rushing from car to car to take or deliver orders.
Elsewhere at The Grey, Raw Coffee Company, Stomping Grounds and Coffee Lab, coffee lovers relish everything from the Panama Geisha V60 to complex brews made from single-origin beans and made in the cafe themselves Carefully baked in our on-site bakery.
Welcome to the third wave of coffee culture sweeping Dubai.
What is third wave coffee?
For the uninitiated, third wave coffee, or coffee renaissance, is the movement to see coffee as an artisan beverage rather than a commodity, focusing on the subtleties of flavor, origin, and brewing techniques.
The term was coined in 2002 but gained traction in Dubai in 2010 before spreading like wildfire.
This could explain the sudden proliferation of specialty coffee shops and home-grown cafes in the city. Seven food outlets open in the emirate every two days. The vast majority are cafes.
humble origin
Curiously, Dubai’s third wave of coffee movement began in 2007 in a modest 40-foot container at the Dubai Garden Centre, when New Zealanders Kim Thomson and Matt Toogood started using storage bins to roast high-quality green beans from sustainable farms around the world.
The concept became an instant hit.
“We were a mediocre business, but we stood out in the market because of the service we provided to our customers,” recalls Toogood, now CEO and owner of Raw Coffee Company, Dubai’s original urban roaster in Al Quoz .
discerning customer
He believes the proliferation of independent coffee shops in Dubai has made customers more aware of where their coffee beans come from.
“More and more people today care about what they consume and how it affects them. We also have an opportunity to educate them about ethical sourcing,” he said.
Ryan Godinho, owner of Stomping Grounds, the Jumeirah family-run Australian-style cafe frequented by Dubai royals, said they had noticed a gradual shift away from mainstream commercial brands and franchise models towards artisanal small-batch single-source in the early stages of Phase 3. Wave movement in 2012.
“As more and more coffee drinkers realize that black coffee doesn’t need bitterness, coffee can be more nuanced and fully enjoyed without sugar or any additives; the true journey of coffee appreciation begins,” says Godinho.
“People are becoming aware of fine-crafted coffee, and with more roasters and cafés, knowledge and expertise are more widely spread. This has led to a heightened awareness of specialty coffee and increased customer expectations,” he explained.
In 2015, Godinho opened a Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) accredited coffee training campus in Dubai, which eventually evolved into Stomping Grounds Café.
“We wanted to introduce a better overall experience of specialty coffee and casual dining with a ‘community cafe’ feel in a market that was primarily commercial/franchise model cafes at the time,” recalls Godinho.
The coffees served at Stomping Grounds are all premium single origin, sourced from all over the world and roasted locally. “In addition to the exclusive Gesha coffees that are popular here, we also have a rotation of at least two or three single origins,” says Godinho.
Both Toodgood and Godinho believe that coffee education and awareness are critical to the growth of coffee sales in the growing retail space.
“Even now, educating consumers about coffee remains our motivation,” Godinho said.
Ahmed Bin Sulayem, Executive Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC), said that in the third coffee wave, a greater focus on consumer education and service will be coffee key factor to the success of the museum.
Bin Sulayem plans to triple the capacity of the coffee center, with the ultimate goal of processing 20,000 tonnes of green coffee worth more than AED 360 million. (see interview)
According to Toogood, the popularity of gourmet coffee has prompted large coffee chains to improve quality to retain customers.
The coffee landscape in Dubai has changed significantly since Starbucks opened its first cafe in downtown Deira in 2000. Today, there are more than 100 Starbucks stores in Dubai and the number is growing.
Andy Holmes, president of Shaya Group Starbucks MENA, said the UAE’s love of coffee is one of the main drivers for their expansion in the region.
“One thing is for sure, Emiratis love coffee. The UAE is one of the most mature and developed coffee markets in the region, so we expect consumption to grow by around 5% per year. We aim to supply more than 30 million by the end of this year cups, and more and more thanks to our home delivery service,” Holmes said.
price factor
Commercial blends are not yet under threat from specialty coffee, and a cup of coffee is only 35 dirhams.
Price-sensitive customers always have a subjective threshold, Godinho said.
“We cannot generalize or determine the extent to which an item’s value is perceived and justified. In most cases it seems logical that value for money is primarily associated with the overall sensory experience. So, at the end of the day, if The coffee is ethically sourced and still of high quality, so the chances of acceptance and appreciation are greater.”
“Coffee consumers in Dubai are probably more knowledgeable than anywhere else”
Cali era Interview with self-proclaimed coffee lover Ahmed Bin Sulayem, Executive Chairman and CEO of DMCC, who advocates specialty coffee and positions Dubai as a global coffee trade hub through DMCC Coffee Centre. Excerpts from the interview.
How is the third wave of coffee changing the coffee landscape in Dubai?
Dubai has a rich and vibrant history when it comes to coffee, a drink that is intertwined with the emirate’s culture of hospitality.
As a result, consumers in Dubai may be more informed than consumers in other markets; they can really appreciate quality products. This means that coffee shops serving high-quality, single-origin specialty coffees are gaining popularity as consumers develop preferences for specific flavors.
At the same time, we are seeing world-class baristas emerge in the region. The storytelling element of third-wave coffee has also resonated with consumers in Dubai. At the same time, demand is further increasing as people become more comfortable with the positive social impact that specialty coffee often offers. Sustainability is a major determinant for many consumers, and third-wave storytelling can underscore this positive impact.
Each of these elements is a key driver behind the operation of DMCC Coffee Center. Our core roasting, warehousing and packaging solutions are supported by additional products, such as our barista training facility, which means we support the entire coffee industry from crop to cup.We bring the best coffee varieties in the world to Dubai
DMCC Coffee Centres also play a key role in supporting coffee shops in the UAE and beyond, primarily through the provision of roasting and specialty services. Using our facilities and expertise, more than 20 specialty coffee concepts across the country are able to offer their customers unique products.
We also run a series of barista competitions to further support Dubai’s coffee ecosystem.
What’s next for Dubai’s coffee industry?
The third wave will continue to have a significant impact on multiple facets of the Dubai coffee industry.
One that interests me in particular is the innovative ways Dubai coffee entrepreneurs can bring high-quality coffee to consumers’ homes.
In addition, consumers in Dubai can also look forward to providing them with a wider range of coffee origins through the DMCC Coffee Centre’s connections to different producers around the world.
Many of our members import premium specialty coffee directly from farms of origin around the world. In addition, we hold regular coffee auctions, offering a wide variety of specialty coffee varieties.
Each of these efforts is key for consumers looking to find the right bean, roast and brew combination to create the perfect coffee.
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