Traditional Mexican plate with modern taste in Abu Dhabi

There are now more than a dozen restaurants and cafes in Yas Bay Waterfrontthe region is expected to shine this winter.

Occupying a proud location along the winding waterfront restaurant line, La Carnita opened its first branch in the capital last November, serving in a vibrant setting just like its flamboyant Dubai branch Modern Mexican cuisine.

where to sit and what to expect

In the cooler months, a table on the waterfront patio is a no-brainer. The space feels lush, with upholstered wicker armchairs and plenty of greenery. The potted plant theme also extends to the interior, with a more casual vibe complete with neon lighting, luxurious round booths and funky wall art. The music inside can be a bit loud, but it’s all part of the fun festival the restaurant aims to host every day.

menu

La Carnita serves traditional Mexican food suited to local tastes rather than the fast-food-style Tex-Mex, which tends to be extravagant in its use of cheese and cream. My dining partner and I started our meal with a classic guacamole (Dh60) with an easy (and better) mashed avocado. This dish stands out for the tortillas that go with it; as opposed to the regular variety, the chefs top the crispy tortillas with tangy ancho chili powder, which pairs perfectly with hand-picked avocados. Lime is not required.

Next, we sampled the Mexican-style burrata (Dh90), where the cheese complements the chimichurri, chipotle, chili and coriander oil base. The tartness of the oil offsets the creaminess of the cheese for a pleasing effect.

Likewise, sea bass ceviche (Dh60) is a spicy blend of jalapeño, cucumber, pumpkin seeds and black pepper in a citrus dressing. I just wish it was served over ice, or at least a little cooler than room temperature, because the citrusy freshness infused by the fish really comes through.

From the popular appetizers, we opted for the eight spice prawns – a must for anyone lamenting the lack of an overly creamy option. I’m not sure what the spice octet means, but you’ll never find me complaining about prawns dipped in garlic cream and spicy brown butter.

We ignored the “main” entree (mix of meat and seafood dishes) on the Chef’s Taco Platter (189 AED 10). Of those we chose, pollo fritto trumped achiote chicken, although lovers of grilled chicken and pineapple (salsa) should still opt for the latter. The frito comes with guilty fried chicken and peanut-lime salsa.

If you’re not counting calories for this meal, opt for quesadilla shells or tacos, which are much better than soft, plain, and slightly stale varieties.

excellent dish

Our third choice taco, the vegan mushroom tortilla, is the star of this Mexican meal. It’s a crunchy feast – from tortilla bottoms and crisp mushrooms to pea sprouts, shallots and pickled peppers. These are drizzled with a fermented chili cream, cotija cheese and balsamic soy sauce glaze. It’s messy to eat, but worth every bite.

Chat with the chef

Chef Nilton Ceccarelli is half Brazilian, half Italian; studied to become a chef at Westminster College, London; worked at Cafe Emm Soho and The Swan Covent Garden in the UK, and La Serre, Reform Social Grill in the UAE Work with Lucky Voice. He has been in charge of La Carnita for the past three years.

Ceccarelli describes his cooking style as finding balance and focusing on the basics. “My basic rule is to source quality ingredients and then not spoil them,” he said.

“It’s important to follow the basics of cooking, and I also recommend tasting it as you cook – it ensures consistency and is one of the keys to my success.”

The chef recommends mushroom tortillas for vegetarians; carne asda for meat lovers; and sea bass fillets for seafood lovers. “Also, any meal at La Carnita can’t be without our churros with cajeta caramel sauce,” he adds.

Price point and contact information

Cold starters range from Dh45 to Dh90; hot starts from Dh35 to Dh65; mains will put you back between Dh140 and Dh680 (for the 1.3kg Tomahawk, it’s called Big Tommy Steak on the menu). Tacos can be ordered individually for AED 22 or AED 58.

This evaluation was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant

Updated: October 13, 2022, 7:11 am