Emirati Vibes: Traditional clothing linking UAE past and present – News

In the third part of a five-part series exploring what defines the UAE, Khaleej Times looks at two of the most iconic garments associated with the country’s culture and heritage

The white Kandoura for men and the black Abaya for women are two of the most iconic garments associated with Emirati culture and traditions. But what are the different elements of these garments, and how have they changed over the years?

When it comes to men’s Kandoura (ethnic attire) and ghutra (headdress), white is indeed the most common colour. In recent years, however, it has not been uncommon for Emirati men to dress Kandoura in a variety of colours, with darker colors associated with winter.

The ghutra is worn on a small hat called a gahfiya and secured with a thick black cord called an agal. Sometimes fringed fabric is attached from the collar of the Kandoura. This is known as taboo sand. A bisht is a loose robe that men sometimes wear over their kandoura for special occasions such as weddings.

Women’s traditional attire includes the traditional jalabia, abaya and head scarf called sheila. In the past, women also wore a burqa — a face covering made of metal-looking fabric.

Artist and fashion designer Feryal Al Bastaki, who has been in the business for nearly two decades, told Khaleej Times that while women’s fashion in the UAE has changed significantly, the connection to tradition remains strong and evident.

Feryal, who opened her first tailoring and embroidery shop in 2003 and launched her first ready-to-wear collection a year later, says the simple social life of the past is reflected in the simple clothing.

“We still wear modern clothes, but you can tell the difference between our jalabyas and abayas. The development of the country is reflected in our designs, but we are always connected to our past,” she said. An example, she explained, is the use of Talli, which is still used today, but possibly in combination with crystals.

According to Feryal, many women still wear the traditional black abaya, although you can find colorful abayas today. She describes her designs as “art that can be framed on the wall”.

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Feryal’s designs are currently on display at Zeman Awwal, a cultural space dedicated to Emirati heritage in the Mall of the Emirates. She says her designs are a mix of art, tradition and modernity. One of her techniques is digitally replicating her drawings on fabric, which she uses to design her pieces.

“As an artist, I try to make my designs always unique. I don’t simply copy what’s happening in fashion,” she added, adding that she still doesn’t want to go against trends entirely. “I watch trends and decide what I want to show based on my inspiration. I can choose a few pops of color, not all of them,” she says.

Feryal targets women in their early twenties to early fifties, noting that she has been putting her daughters in charge of product lines that cater to younger generations. “They are also artists, they will choose the color, cut and design that suits them better [them],” she says.